Hello, everyone!

I hope your week wasn’t too rough in this glorious 2025 economy, and you’re ready for some cat talk! As I mentioned in my last post, today I’m going over what to think about when buying cat clothes, and how to make the whole experience a positive one for both you and your cat.

Safety First

Let’s start with the most important part: safety. And I don’t mean warmth or fit, I mean the actual construction of the clothing.

I often see sweaters decorated with beads, tiny buttons, or other little add-ons, sometimes scattered all over or worked into cable patterns. They look lovely, sure, but has anyone thought about whether the cat can reach those? Chew on them? Pull them off?

And what happens if your cat swallows one?

That’s exactly why I only ever put buttons at the neck, using a stitch that:

1. Keeps them out of reach of curious paws and teeth
2. Holds them on so well that the sweater itself would wear out before the button ever came loose (tested by my own cats, multiple times!)

So next time you see something cute, take a second to ask: is it also designed with safety in mind? Your cat’s safety should always come first.

Sleeves or Sleeveless? Or One Hole for Both Legs?

I touched on this in my last post, but quick recap:

If it’s your cat’s first sweater, or they’re still unsure about wearing clothes, go sleeveless. If your cat’s already comfortable in clothing, feel free to explore other styles. Sweaters with a single hole for both front legs can also work well, I’ve made several custom orders like this, just make sure they’re stretchy (like knit) so they don’t restrict movement.

Always Check the Size Chart

I really can’t say this enough: check the size chart for the specific shop you’re buying from! Every brand sizes differently. Just because your cat wears a Medium somewhere doesn’t mean they’ll wear a Medium everywhere. My sizes, for example, run large, so a cat that’s a Medium elsewhere might need an XS or S in my shop.

Most of the handful of 1-star reviews I’ve gotten came from people who skipped this step. Which brings me to…

If Your Cat Is Between Sizes, Request a Custom Order

This is a thing, and it happens more often than you’d think. A lot of shops offer custom sizing, so don’t be shy about asking! I personally do custom sizes at no extra cost, some shops may charge a small fee. Either way, don’t settle for a fit that’s off!

When in Doubt, Ask

If you’re not sure about sizing, message the seller. They won’t think it’s a silly question, promise! Buying cat clothes can be just as confusing as buying jeans for yourself (if you know, you know). Better safe than sorry!

What About Sweater Length?

You might’ve noticed I don’t list exact lengths on my size chart. That’s because every design is different, some run longer, some shorter. In general, mine tend to run on the longer side, which you’ve probably noticed in the photos.

If you need a specific length, just message me, I’m always happy to adjust made-to-order pieces.

Sewn vs. Knitted Cat Clothes

If you’ve browsed a few shops, you’ve probably noticed handmade knitwear tends to cost more and those shops usually have fewer listings overall.

Here’s why, especially from someone sourcing materials in Finland (not exactly the cheapest place for yarn):

Yarn is often pricier than fabric, and “fancy” yarns like alpaca or mohair can get expensive fast. Sewing is also just faster: even as a fast knitter and a pretty average sewer, I can sew a few shirts in an hour, but one hand-knit sweater can take me 4+ hours depending on size and design.

And to be clear, I mean hand-knitting, no machines involved!

Knitted vs. Fleece/Jersey: What Should You Choose?

Honestly, that’s up to you and your cat. Knitted cotton/linen works well for summer, while wool or thicker acrylic suits winter better. Knitwear tends to be stretchier and more comfortable than fleece, but both fleece and wool are warm options. Pick whatever fits your cat’s personality and your climate best.

Check the Shop’s Reviews (Not Just the Star Rating)

Look at how the seller handles negative feedback, not just the average score. It’s easy to seem great when everyone’s happy, what matters is what happens when someone isn’t. If a shop has a few 1-3 star reviews with no response at all, that’s worth noting. And if there is a response, read it. Is it polite? Helpful? Defensive?

A good seller should be willing to actually deal with problems, not just ignore them.

If There’s a Problem, Contact the Seller First

A few of the rare bad reviews I’ve gotten came out of nowhere: no message, no heads up. The buyer hadn’t checked the size chart, the sweater didn’t fit, and instead of reaching out, they just left a 1* review. I make each piece based on the size ordered, I don’t know your kitty’s actual measurements unless you tell me.

I also have a fair return policy and genuinely want to fix things when they go wrong. So if something’s off, message first, there’s almost always a solution!

… And Leave a Review!

Reviews matter a lot for small shops, especially the detailed ones. Think about: was the item well made? Was the sizing accurate? Was the seller easy to talk to? Did they handle any issues well?

Your review helps other buyers shop smarter, and it genuinely helps small makers like me.

Return & Exchange Policies

Always check a shop’s return policy before ordering, it’ll save you headaches later.

As an EU-based seller, I offer returns and exchanges within 14 days of delivery. That gives you two weeks to decide. If the item comes back unused and in original condition, you get a full refund. Prefer an exchange? Send the original item back and share the tracking/receipt with me, and once I have that, I’ll get the new one out to you.

Like most shops, I don’t offer returns on custom-made pieces, because they’re made specifically for your cat. With custom orders, I work through every detail with you, you get photos before shipping, and measurements, yarn, and design are all discussed in advance. These aren’t mystery items. And just to be clear: I don’t charge extra for “custom” as a service, the price difference just comes down to materials. For example, cashmere sweater costs more than standard wool simply because the yarn itself does.

One thing to watch out for: some shops label “made-to-order” items as “custom” specifically to avoid offering returns. But these aren’t the same thing. A custom piece is made for one specific cat with unique measurements. Made-to-order just means it’s made after you order, but it’s still a standard size and design. I steer clear of shops that do this. Some even use “hygiene” as an excuse, which doesn’t really hold up; I have even seen shops claim that if the item was unpacked (how else are you going to check whether it fits?), that automatically means the “hygiene seal” is “broken”, making the item non-returnable. Imagine buying jeans, they don’t fit, and the store tells you “sorry, no returns, hygiene reasons”. Most pet shops accept returns on unused items with tags, and online sellers should too.

Measuring Tips

Use a soft measuring tape if you have one. Different shops ask for different measurements, but for me, chest circumference (measured right behind the front legs) is the key one. Knit fabric stretches a lot, so it naturally adjusts for small belly differences, but if your cat has a noticeably round tummy, just let me know and I’ll add a bit of extra room there, no extra charge!

No tape measure? No problem. Use a piece of string or ribbon to take the measurement, then lay it flat against a ruler to find the length.

Don’t measure too tight. For hairless cats, measure close to the skin, snug but not constricting, the way you’d measure yourself. For furry cats, leave room for a pinky finger between the tape and their body; the fluffier the coat, the more room you’ll want to account for that.

Materials & Allergies

Most cats tolerate wool really well. While it can feel a bit scratchy at first, it softens considerably with wear and washing. I have many friends whose cats — Sphynx included — wear wool regularly without any issues.

My own cat Jupiter has sensitive skin from past stress-related overgrooming. Most wool types are fine for him, but lambswool feels a bit rough. That doesn’t mean wool’s off the table though — he wears alpaca with zero irritation, and I’ve found a lot of sensitive cats do well with finer fibers like merino, alpaca, mohair, llama, or even cashmere if you feel like splurging.

Plant-based fibers like cotton, bamboo, viscose, and linen are also great, soft, breathable, and hypoallergenic. Synthetic blends (acrylic, polyester) are usually fine for sensitive skin too, just less eco-friendly.

I keep a wide range of materials in my shop, and I’d always suggest something with at least some natural fiber in it, wool or plant-based, just for comfort.

Wool specifically deserves a mention: it’s breathable, naturally moisture-wicking, resists odor and fire, and is easy to care for despite its reputation. It’s also a renewable resource, and sheep actually need shearing for their health, as many modern breeds can’t shed properly on their own, so skipping it can cause overheating, parasites, and matting.

Coming Soon: A Full Care Guide for Hand-Knit Catwear!

One thing I hear a lot is that hand-knit sweaters, especially wool ones, are a pain to wash and look after. Honestly, they’re really not. With the right care, no fancy products or hand-wringing required, your cat’s sweater can stay soft and last for years!

I’m working on a full post with simple care steps, a few myths to clear up, and the products I actually use.

(And yes, there will be photos. Jupiter insists on modeling.)

Hope this was helpful! I’ve got something fun planned for next time, so stay tuned, and have a good week!

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